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was a forbidden city for us

so we followed the sign and turned left

it happened that QUNFUDAH on the coast of the Red Sea was on our route

We picked up a hitch hiker

a Tihama man, he was exotic, he was perfumed with musk, wore a circlet of flowers on his head, kohl bedecked eyes looked larger than life, he grinned easily displaying perfect brilliant white teeth. But he wasn't somebody to pick a fight with, he had a dagger, bandolier of bullets and a rifle

we dropped him off near Qunfuddah

His village was somewhat untidy but most of the huts sprouted TV aerials

we hailed fishermen in the Red Sea

bought their catch and cooked it on a make-shift barbecue - never tasted and never will taste, better.

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