was a forbidden city for us

it happened that QUNFUDAH on the coast of the Red Sea was on our route

a Tihama man, he was exotic, he was perfumed with musk, wore a circlet of flowers on his head, kohl bedecked eyes looked larger than life, he grinned easily displaying perfect brilliant white teeth. But he wasn't somebody to pick a fight with, he had a dagger, bandolier of bullets and a rifle

His village was somewhat untidy but most of the huts sprouted TV aerials

bought their catch and cooked it on a make-shift barbecue - never tasted and never will taste, better.